Wednesday, August 24, 2005

So I got in the water again yesterday and once again it was junk. You know what? I didn't care as it was a beautiful day and the ocean felt good! I looked at it as an exercise session. We went to Rock Quarry, a spot I had surfed before a few years ago when I was here on Kauai. I can see how the place can be killer on a good swell. The waves were building somewhat and I am hopeful for some better ones today, as my friend said he would be here to pick me up at 8:00 so we can get an early start. Yesterday we went out at about 4:00 in the afternoon. That's the thing about here, you don't necessarily need to dawn patrol as you can always find offshore or protected places. I also can't believe how many wahines (girls/women) surf here and the same on the Big Island. I thought there were plenty on the mainland, but there's many more here. Not that that is a bad thing...



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