Tuesday, September 27, 2005

Whoopppeee!! Finally, I got back into the water. I surfed Hanalei Bay, 2-4 feet with a small crowd. The surf is just starting to come up a bit, so it seems that most of my fellow surfer's were caught unawares. I can't say I had an epic session, I kooked out on my share of waves, but did get a few decent rides. All in all a good time. I had surfed Hanalei once, back in the mid 70's, and that time frame is somewhat of a haze, so it was unfamiliar ground, so to speak. It took me a few rides until I actually made a wave. I almost got tubed, but lost my balance at the most inopportune moment and the lip sent me a flyin'. Still, when it's 85 degrees out and 80 degree water with sunny skies, it's hard to complain about a whole lot. I'm hoping to get in the water earlier tomorrow and I might even take my camera. However, if I surf Hanalei again, for those of you unfamiliar with the spot, it is a substantial paddle, so any photos I take from the beach will not do it much justice. I will do my best. Aloha.


Blogger Surfsister said...

I can't believe you can trunk it. From the sound of your post, it's way too hot for even a springsuit. I am SO jealous . . . and happy for you. Does the fact that you got wet today mean you got a car?

6:38 PM  
Blogger puttzle said...

Still no car, surfsister. I have a old high school friend who has lived here for something like 30 years and he was kind enough to take me surfing! I am hot on the trail of a car, maybe today I will procure one! After surfing, of course!

6:55 AM  

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