Thursday, October 06, 2005

Yesterday turned out to be probably one of my better days since I've been here. Why you ask? First off, I actually did some work. For the time being, I am working for a friend who has a painting business. My skills are limited, so I am the laborer. As well, and don't laugh, I am terrified of heights. Put me on the roof of a house, and I am very uncomfortable. Why that is I don't know, but it's been with me all my life. Maybe from falling out of a tree when I was a kid, who knows?!? It's kind of strange when I think about all the large surf I would go out in in my younger days, and somewhat even now, that doesn't bother me. Growing up on Maui, I would jump right out into 12-15 foot and even bigger. Of course, I was a lot younger then. I guess the fact that the water affords a softer place to land versus hard earth is a big factor.

Speaking of surf, after work my friend took me to Pakala's for a surf session. It was 1-4 foot, with an occasional bigger set. I definitely had a fun time and we stayed out until it was dark. As one of my blog visitors mentioned in a comment, the water is very red there, and I have to admit a few times I thought of Fluffy. Everyone out there was pretty darn nice and I succeeded in grabbing some waves. I am rusty from not surfing enough. By my count, that's 10 session in 4 months, and all but 3 of those sessions were in fairly junky surf. So, 3 good sessions in 4 months is not going to cut it, I need to get out there much more often. Hopefully, that will happen in the months to follow. Aloha.

4 Comments:

Blogger DonHo said...

Great days ahead...

3:58 AM  
Blogger DonHo said...

I surfed Pakalas and the place around the corner Drainpipes on some really great days (Your sister Kathy was with me). Glad things are picking up for you...

4:00 AM  
Blogger Dingo said...

What,no illegal aliens there???

5:13 AM  
Blogger puttzle said...

Hiya Dingo! I haven't seen any, but I hear there are a few around, but not like over there! I think a lot of them are on Maui.

5:46 AM  

Post a Comment

<< Home