Thursday, November 24, 2005

I just returned from a morning session at Hanalei. 4-6 feet with an occasional 8 footer thrown in for good measure. Let me tell you, 6-8 Hawaiian is about my limit! While I love large surf, at my age I am getting too old and am too out of shape to be going out in anything bigger. I did have some real fun waves, but got absolutely pounded on the way back out. I'd ride a wave, then have to try to get back out past 10+ waves in the set. Those familiar with Hanalei know that is a common occurrence, especially when on a longboard as it is not possible to do the old 'duck dive' on a 9 foot board. You have to paddle parallel to the break and try to get into the 'channel' and avoid all the oncoming whitewater. Easier than it sounds, folks. I got way more tired from battling my way back out then from riding. There was one wave that I was going to take and as I started paddling, all the other guys started yelling about the huge set behind that wave. I made sure I caught that wave as I knew I would get nailed if I didn't. Alas, I got pounded once again as I attempted to return to the line-up. I also grabbed one of the big ones and rode it until I got wasted inside and rolled around all over the place. Of course, there were a ton of waves after that one, and yes, I ate whitewater.

Sorry for the lack of pictures, I forgot my camera. Have a great Thanksgiving. Aloha.


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