Wednesday, December 07, 2005

Another tough day in Paradise. Worked on the south side today and oddly enough there was a small south swell. Pakala's was the closest place to look at and there were 1-3 foot perfect peelers with an offshore wind. Every now and then, a slightly bigger set would roll through. My friend and I hit it out there with one other guy in the water already. A couple other guys eventually came out, but by then my friend had paddled off down the line and outside. He got a terrific first wave out there and rode it for a long ways. I, on the other hand, was hanging outside the inside bowlish area waiting for one of the sets. My friend got another good wave, he's out there by himself. I'm staying where I am because I've invested too much time waiting for that set one. After he got about 5 waves and me zero (I'm still waiting...), I give up my stubbornness and join him. Dynamite! Just the two of us out there having a blast. Nice 2-3 foot waves. The only downside was that it was very, and I mean very, shallow inside. All of a sudden, the wave would suck out like mad. Fortunately, I stayed off the reef. Whew! Aloha.


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