Saturday, December 31, 2005

I surfed Hanalei after work this afternoon. 6-8 foot easy, with sets around 10 foot. I caught one wave and had a blast until I ate it trying for the barrel on the inside. I then paddled back out and caught another one. I dropped in and cranked my turn and the wave simply reeled. I probably should have gone for the gusto and tucked, but instead I straightened out and suffered the consequences because of it. I got hammered! That was enough for me for today, I went in. I still had a great time, just because if that first ride. It's all good! Happy New Year to all. Aloha.

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