Tuesday, December 06, 2005

I surfed Tunnels this afternoon after work. First time I've ever surfed there. What a nice wave! Well worth the long paddle out. All I have heard about Tunnels is that it doesn't support a longboard...too steep on the take-off. When it's 2-4, that's not necessarily true! It is an exciting takeoff, I must admit. You have to set get up real quick and set that inside rail. I succeeded on every wave I took off on, except one. I got up a little too slow, and was attempting to take off a bit late. Next thing I knew, the bottom fell out and I got launched. Did a little bounce off the bottom to boot! Minor scrapes on both feet. Tunnels is kind of shallow inside. It's also where Bethany Hamilton got chewed on, which I forgot until we were out for about an hour. I asked my buddy if this wasn't the place she got nailed. He replied to the affirmative, and said that he tries not to think about that when he surfs there. From then on, things got spooky! As the sun set, all I could think about was getting in in one piece. Mission accomplished. Aloha.

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