Monday, December 05, 2005

Ohhh yeah! We knocked off from work around 4:15 and headed for Hanalei to see if the surf had gotten better. I'm lucky that the guy I work for is also an avid surfer. He tends to make sure that we get a few sessions in every weekday. We made it as far as Middles. Hanalei looked so-so, but Middles looked better. We headed out. As with Hanalei, it is a long paddle. Since I still am not real clear on where to paddle out, I ended up getting knocked around on my way out. Not a good start. When I did make it out, I joined about 8 other guys in the lineup. Within a few minutes, there were only 5 of us. I caught a wave or two, but was kind of off. I sat for awhile, caught another wave or two, and then snagged an awesome 4 foot (Hawaiian measure) wave. First I had to hoot at the boss, who was thinking of taking off down the line. He backed out. I was streaking along and came upon the inside bowl. Full speed ahead! I fully backdoored the section and was rewarded with one of the finest tube rides I have experienced since I started surfing again almost 3 years ago. I mean I was fully tubed, I am sure I disappeared inside so that I was not visible to anyone watching from the shore. Epic! I kept waiting for the lip to nail me and knock me down. Never happened! High and dry was I.


Anonymous Anonymous said...

Now that is using the word epic correctly.

4:44 AM  
Blogger puttzle said...


5:13 AM  

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