Friday, September 15, 2006

Surf's Coming Up!

At least that's what I am hearing. I drove to Pakalas, leaving Kilauea at 5:00 a.m. and arriving at Pakalas about 6:15. There were about 5 cars, which is always a good sign. I grabbed my board and walked on down to the beach. It looked like it usually does, nice 2 to 3 foot peelers with about 8 people out. No hesitation, rubbed a little wax on the board and paddled out. On my way out, here comes my friend from the madland, Joe in his shorts, cruising along on a decent 2 footer, which is a little above the waist. We exchanged waves and continued in our respective directions.

Arriving at the 'pack', which consisted of a couple people here and a few there and some inside, I waited my turn and grabbed a nice little chest high wave. Pakalas is a fun and enjoyable left. I was feeling good that this would be a good session. I rode it to where Joe was paddling out and talked to him on the way back outside.

The surf seemed to pick up a little as time went by, I got a ton of waves in the first 90 minutes or so, but then it shut down and I decided 2 hours was enough and got out, satisfied and feeling fairly good.

The one negative was my knee. It was ok at first, but I realized that squatting was not an available option. That worked just fine until, sitting outside all by my lonesome, the wave of the day comes right to me. It's easy head high, perfectly shaped, and I'm all over it. Problem was that as I jumped up, I needed to be in a full squat to hold my rail and not spin out. I did that, but when I did my knee absolutely screamed at me to Stop It! and stop it now! I attempted to stand back up but my knee and leg refused to cooperate and I lost it, wiped-out, call it what you want.

I got back on my board, flexed my leg a few times and muttered a few -expletive deleted- and paddled back out. I stayed out for probably 30 minutes after that. My knee hurts, I should and probably will seek medical aid soon, but I also am going to look at Hanalei later today and if it's good and not too nuts, I'll surf. Aloha.


Anonymous Anonymous said...

Narly, dude!

12:33 PM  
Blogger Surfsister said...

Puttz, take it from someone who's had two knee operations (and who will eventually need a knee replacement). Have that knee looked at by someone. Even if it's not a doctor, have someone (a chiro, a physical therapist, etc.) give it the once over so you can find out if you tore a ligament. If it's serious, it won't heal itself. If it's not, there are things you can do to help it. Take care of yourself!

2:02 PM  
Blogger puttzle said...

Will do, M!

3:39 PM  

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