Friday, October 13, 2006

After Work Report

After flaking on dawn patrol this morning, I headed to Hanalei around 8:30 to check it out. I didn't hear surf last night or this morning and didn't expect a whole lot. We've had variable winds for about a week now and the weatherpeople are calling for more of the same for the foreseeable future. That can be a good or a bad thing, depending on which direction they are blowing and how strong. They have been very light and as a result it is very humid.

I pulled into the parking areas, hopped out and took a look. It was pretty glassy and looked half way decent, so I decided to give it a go. As it often is, the surf was bigger than it looked once you got out there. A solid 2-4 foot with pretty darn nice shape. Then a solid 5 foot set rolled in and peeled perfectly from Flat Rock all the way through.

Needless to say I had a good session in the water, nice people and real good waves. Laird Hamilton was out on his stand-up paddling board. I couldn't believe how nice of a guy he is. There was one other guy riding a stand-up paddler, he would catch a wave, paddle back out and take off on another, never allowing us regular board guys a chance. Laird on the other hand, hung around, talked to people and let a bunch of waves go by so others could partake. He just got finished with a trip from one end of the Islands to the other, so maybe he was tired. He and Dave Kalama started at South Point on the Big Island, rode bikes to the other end of the Big Island, paddled across to Maui on stand-up paddlers, then rode bikes to the Lahaina side on Maui. They then paddled to O'ahu, peddled to the other side of it, then paddled to Kaua'i and peddled to the Lighthouse here in Kilauea. If I remember right, they started Saturday and finished on Tuesday.

From what I am hearing, just about every winter spot around the islands has surf, not counting the places that only go off when it is larger. Aloha.


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