Wednesday, December 06, 2006

After posting yesterday morning, I returned to the beach and surfed again. I also surfed this morning. Today was the best I've seen Hanalei this season in the early morning. When I pulled up at dawn, it was connecting from outside all the way through the bowl. Unfortunately, it got more sectioned as time went by. Every time I grabbed an outside one, somebody inside on the bowl would hop me and prevent me from making it. I was getting mouthy so I figured I better get out of the water. It's not worth the grief, no matter how good the surf is. A guy who I said something to came up to me after he got out, asking me if I had anything to say to him. I explained that I was frustrated, getting mouthy, and that is why I got out. I apologized for my actions, he stuck out his hand and introduced himself and it was all fine from there.

The waves are 3-5 foot right now but coming up fast, expected to peak in the giant range later in the day. Aloha.


Anonymous Anonymous said...

I don't comment much, but I do enjoy reading here. Chow.

6:20 AM  
Blogger puttzle said...

Thanks. Sorry I'm not more consistent.

7:13 AM  

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