Monday, April 23, 2007

This old body is hurting a little after yesterday. I 'surfed' 3 times! Kind of. It was 3-5 feet and pretty darn nice. A little crowded also. But still worth the effort. I went out early, around 6:30, and was in by 7:30. I hung around and talked to some people, then a friend offered me his stand-up board for a try. I had never attempted it previously. I thought, "why not?" and gave it a go.

First off, the break at the Bay is at least one quarter of a mile out, it seems like a mile when you are paddling, believe me. I walked out a ways, then stood up and started paddling, standing as I had been instructed. OK, I can do this. Turned out I could, as I stroked right on out to the line-up. At which point my legs said they were pretty much over this for now. I sat on the 'board', which really was more like a boat, 12 feet long and 5 and 1/2 inches thick. You could have brought a chair and small barbeque and had a party on this thing. I'm watching these other stand-up surfers cruise around and steer their boards with ease and with maybe a stroke or two, catch waves. I stand again! I stroke, but I'm heading out to sea. I can't turn this behemoth! I sit. I turn the monster around. Here comes a little wave and nobody is bothering with it. Screw it, I'm going! Oh yeah, I'm still sitting. "You're not going to stand and catch it" my body informs me, so I paddled as normal from the prone position. I catch the wave, jump up on me tired old legs, and kind of ride for a bit. Then I fell off. Fortunately, I used a leash, I'm not going to swim over that reef at low tide! I am totally 'over it' and paddle in...prone on the boat.

I knew that style was hard on the body, last night I was feeling it. Not so bad today. It is a great workout, for anyone looking to shape up! No wonder a lot of the guys (and gals) practice by paddling in the river. It's killer on the legs, tough on the lower back. Imagine standing in a small dingy in rough weather and constantly having to keep your balance with nothing to hold on to but an oar. Ouch. Better to sit. Better yet to lie down.

I return to the beach and pass the 50 pound board off to another tester. I went to my car and watched the surf for a short time. It seemed to be getting better and what did I do? Grabbed my regular board and paddled back out! Caught a few waves and started back in.

This is where things got really bizarre. Bizarrer? My friend's son (160 pounds) was cruising along on the stand-up board with a chocolate lab (120 pounds) on board (I told you it was BIG!) I was maybe 30 or 40 yards portside of him. Between us were three rather large women. Oh hell, let's call it like it was, they were enormous! There had to be 300 pounds on one, at least. At first I thought she had on some weird colored swimsuit, but when she dove under the water and I saw this giant butt crack, with a sickening feeling I realized she was naked! Her friends kept throwing her outfit to her and she would grab it and throw it away. I couldn't stop laughing all the rest of the way in. My friend's son told me that when the dog saw them, she (the dog) started barking and cowered down on the boat/board. Needless to say, they were the talk of the beach for awhile as they continued to frolic for another 10 minutes.

Surf's supposed to jump up yet again today, I'm off to see. Aloha.


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